Prime Green : Remembering the Sixties Read online

  Prime Green : Remembering the Sixties

  PRIME GREEN: REMEMBERING THE SIXTIES STONE ROBERT

  With love and gratitude for the enduring friendships of that time, and to those, living or gone, who shared what we saw and what we were

  CONTENTS ONE In 1958 I was on the bridge of the USS… 1 TWO I had missed New York with a passion during my… 21 THREE When I remember the New York Daily News as it… 31 FOUR My normal shift on the News ended at one in… 41 FIVE Janice and I arrived in New Orleans in 1960 shortly… 45 SIX I went back to New York, my head spinning with… 65 SEVEN Janice, Deidre, and I arrived in San Francisco late in… 71 EIGHT Ken Kesey worked in a cabin so deep in the… 89 NINE Early on a fall morning in 1963 I went to… 97 TEN Like everything that was essential to the sixties, the Kesey… 119 ELEVEN The offices of the paper I will call the National… 131 PHOTOGRAPHIC INSERT

  TWELVE The culture war got meaner as the world got smaller. 149 THIRTEEN After a spell of thinly subsidized unemployment, it became necessary… 163 FOURTEEN The day A Hall of Mirrors was published in New York… 171 FIFTEEN Janice and the children arrived at last, and in the… 187 SIXTEEN Years before, circa 1960, while George Rhoads and I were… 205 EPILOGUE During the four years of our expatriation in England, news… 223 ABOUT THE AUTHOR OTHER BOOKS BY ROBERT STONE CREDITS COVER COPYRIGHT ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

  ONE In 1958 I was on the bridge of the USS Arneb, an ungainly naval transport ship with the lines of a tramp steamer. LCVPs were stacked on hatches fore and aft under mammoth A-frames designed to raise and lower them. The Arneb had entertained kamikazes at Okinawa. Veterans of Normandy and the South Pacific ran many of the ship’s divisions. That quarter of 1957–58, spring in the Northern calendar, darkening autumn in the Southern Ocean, we had been given some kind of pass from the alerts of the cold war. UNESCO had designated 1958 as an International Geophysical Year and

  the Navy had patched together the Arneb as America’s contibution. We were tracking electrical activity on the surface of the sun, “sunspots” in the far south of the Indian Ocean, southwest of the ghost whaling station on the Crozet Islands. On board was a team of astrophysicists from the University of Chicago. It was the last of the Antarctic expeditions mapped out by Admiral Richard Byrd and was known as Operation Deep Freeze III. One day we were steaming on the northern edge of the ice floes at the latitude where the seasonal oscillations of the Antarctic Conver- gence determine the weather. The subpolar wind warmed as it quickened, the dark blue plain of ocean rising into spiky horsetails that here and there showed white. The weather in the far south, I was learning, was weird and contrary in ways that made it differ from the Arctic. April at latitude 55 offered a dark sapphire sky dap- pled with cirrus trails. Colors were harsh and dry, without mist. Ice- bergs flashed on the horizons, intensely defined yet somehow ghostly, like hallucinations. I was at the helm, a watch where the night hours looked little dif- ferent from day. The ocean glowed with the same strangely referred light. As a petty officer (my rank was officially journalist third class) I was exempt from helm watches. In fact I enjoyed them far out at sea. A watch on the helm on the open ocean involved keeping an eye on the binnacle indicator, feeling the big lumbering transport fall away under the roaring polar wind, then bringing her back on so that the needle showed the designated course. A helmsman got to know the ship and its eccentricities, its stubborn lists and rolls. If the captain or the exec had not planned some exercise for the day, it was a soothing routine. The formalities of the bridge were vaguely liturgical: terse com- mands repeating ancient formulas in antique language, bells, blocks robert stone 2

  of Morse code reporting weather from the adjoining radio shack, the boatswain’s whistle at the regulation times of day. There was a sense of everything seriously in place. Over and over, we located and re- aligned ourselves in the mathematics of the planet, forever adjusting and correcting the location of our tuck in space and time. The ocean around us stood for blue infinity. Time came to us courtesy of the Naval Observatory, sifting out across the garden fifteen thousand miles away in Washington, over which Vice President Nixon then brooded. Also, helm watches could be traded for other, less diverting details in the ship’s system of graft and barter. The duty helmsman whose watch I stood would perform some equivalent responsibility for me. With the ship far out at sea, the helmsman’s sole responsibility was to keep the ship on course, so there was time for daydreaming. For the previous month or so we had been undergoing repairs in Melbourne. In the antipodean autumn of 1958, I spent my idle hours contemplating the moves of an Australian Olympic fencer named Denise Corcoran, whom I had met by carrying her foils across Hyde Park, the one in Sydney. I had learned something from Denise, and I was still grappling with the substance of it. Crossing Hyde Park, Denise and I found that we were both bound for Melbourne: the Arneb was going in for repairs to its evaporator system; Denise was headed for hours of swordplay in a gymnasium above the Spencer Street railroad station, preparing for the Empire Games that were due to start in Montreal in a few months. I went often to watch her work in the dingy gym above the sta- tion, even when we had settled down together (on our free nights at least) in a mean and ugly neighborhood at the end of the line. She was tall and redheaded, which she told me was all wrong for fencers; it aroused anger and spite in opponents because you looked, as she prime green: remembering the sixties 3

  put it, like a big gawk—people laughed. Fencers were meant to be compact and sleek, never outsized, overdone, or obvious, certainly not freckled and redheaded and slightly bucktoothed like my Denise. Nevertheless, she seemed to be their star, intimidating the other girls. Out on the ocean, in my mind’s eye, I could still see how she used the long, strong, and shapely legs she complained about in unexpected lunges that ran her enemy the length of the enclosure. The fencer’s costume was particularly lacking in any sort of glamour, but she could appear quite handsome and provocative, planted and prepared to strike. I liked the way the cloth of her breeches wrin- kled over the taut skin at the backs of her knees. I also enjoyed her pretense to a complete absence of humor, which made her a most droll comic. She used expressions like “crikey,” “fair dinkum,” and “truly.” A pint made her “squiffed.” Some days, if I had a twenty-four in town, I would sneak Denise early out of the gym, out from under the raptor dragon gaze of her coach. This meant making our way through the humid halls and moist saloons and beer-polished private lounges of the vast station in which around five o’clock each afternoon a state of headlong societal breakdown was under way. In those days the official bar-closing hour in the state of Victoria was 6 p.m. (It was the bloody women, blokes explained—they had the vote, they wanted the blokes home for their tea.) At the same time, the general hour at which the clerks and shop assistants and bookkeepers of the City were relieved of their day’s employment was 5:30. Thousands of wage slaves raged out of Melbourne’s Victorian brownstone office buildings and headed for the Spencer Street station. Most of them wanted a drink. At the bars around the station it was frantic. One place in the cel- lar served its vigorous tawny beer through a hose; customers thrust their pint glasses forth and stood to withstand the spray. Admiring robert stone 4

  Australians as I do, I continue to think their prohibitionist impulses of that time were excessive and misguided. Such impulses usually are. The floors were puddled with beer and sick. There were fights. And there was the business of conducting young Denise, all decked out for sport, through the hordes while preserving the inviolability of her person. Of course the scene was rowdy and aggressively macho, but the Australian dimension provided a sometimes prevailing good humor and a tolerant sense of absurdity. This ceremonial was the Aussie an- swer to what one
of the French decadents called L’Heure Jaune, the “Yellow Hour,” when, a hundred years ago, one took absinthe on St. Germain. It was called locally “the swirl,” pronounced with the most inimitable array of diphthongs this side of Pittsburgh. In the six weeks we spent refitting in Christchurch, Sydney, and Melbourne I had a lesson on the subject of being or not being Amer- ican. Australians and New Zealanders in the fifties felt very posi- tively about Americans, felt a degree of kinship in blood and language that the desperate struggle with Japan had strengthened. This of course is history, and history’s narratives are being revised to suit our sorry times. But even when the people of the two southern commonwealths admired the United States and rejoiced in the al- liance, they had no particular intention of emulating its ways. Denise among others explained the differences between the U.S. and other lands, most of which neither of us had ever seen. One night we spent a cultural evening at Melbourne’s only cine- matic art house, watching a film of the Bolshoi Ballet’s production of Giselle. Denise cried. Maybe it was because she wasn’t a dancer and desired to be. Maybe it was at the sheer crepuscular Transylvan- ian morbidness of the show. Anyway, she wept wholesome tears on my neckerchief. I thought she was falling in love with me, to the ex- prime green: remembering the sixties 5

  tent that I understood the phrase, much less the thing itself. I imag- ined that I felt the same way. We were both transported by this weirdly colored dance film portraying the effect of class distinctions on wisps and wilis. It had nice music and I had nice Denise beside me in her party pants and freckles. It was all fantasy but the inexpert merging, back in St. Kilda. Denise, unlike many young middle-class women in Australia, had no self-consciousness about being seen with American sailors. We dreamed. With my political sophistication, instinct for strategy, and brilliant navigation, coupled with Denise’s swordsmanship and fear- lessness, the Indies lay at our feet. We might strike out for the throne of a rajah or Borneo. However, as we drank to love and the Southern Cross and the beer-blighted sky over Melbourne, we began to argue about, of all things, national character and how it might in- terfere with our plans. Somehow we reached the point of Americans Worship the Dollar. “Americans worship the dollar,” Denise told me. I was shocked. “Who worships the dollar? Me?” I was the only child of a single New York schoolteacher. I had grown up in an SRO hotel room she had maintained on her tiny dis- ability payments. Poverty was part of my identity at that time. I ro- manticized and sentimentalized it. “Well, not you so much,” Denise assured me, and she took my hand in her strong grasp. “You’re an artistic type.” This assessment in Australia was not necessarily a compliment. “What the hell does that mean?” “It shows in your hands.” She took hold of my right hand in her trained grip. “You have long sensitive fingers. Not like most blokes.” I let that one pass. robert stone 6

  “Money’s all they think about,” she said sadly. “Isn’t it? Yanks? Money and sex?” “Sailors don’t have any money.” It occurred to me they had not much sex either. “I don’t mean you. You don’t count.” “It’s just a cliché,” I complacently explained. “One of many anti- American clichés around.” “Everyone says you all get paid too much.” “To buy you gin with, darling girl.” She told me I had said a rotten thing. She would buy her own. She also told me I could ask anyone about Americans and their passion for money. It wasn’t something she’d made up. We managed to put the subject aside. On my way back to the Arneb the next morning I began to ponder Denise’s reflections. It was true that people in Anzac land rarely talked about money or their jobs. I had learned the then current sterling monetary sys- tem playing poker in Christchurch in the homes of people who had stopped their cars to invite me to dinner. I was hopeless at telling half crowns from ha’pennies and equally hopeless at poker, but I could not stop my hosts from letting me win. And no one ever vol- unteered what they did for a living. It was not something people talked about. On my way home to the ship, it occurred to me that recently major league baseball had been traumatized when the owners of the Brooklyn Dodgers and the New York Giants left their longtime supporters to the wind through their crumbling stadium walls, de- camping to the sleek West. As they went they left the chumps with the inside story: that nothing American men did was more impor- tant than making money. Denise was an athlete possessed of a certain spiritual certainty. I prime green: remembering the sixties 7

  suddenly realized that this toothy little jock from the ends of the earth knew a few things that I, a New York boy, didn’t. She was on my mind a lot. We wrote. By the time of the Empire Games I would be out of the Navy and we might meet in Montreal. I was drifting between our course and the prospect of Canadian autumn when the starboard lookout reported a vessel moving paral- lel with our course. Presently the captain appeared on the bridge and ordered the special sea and anchor detail to stations. I handed over the wheel to the quartermaster of the watch. For the next fifteen minutes we watched the long blue-black line stretch out at a slight angle of interception to our course. It seemed to stretch without limit, as far as the after horizon, where the sun was declining, threatening to disappear. We must have overtaken it, because the faster the speed we made, the farther the long line stretched out ahead of us. The captain was a gloomy man, a disappointed career officer lack- ing any sense of what European social critics call deep play, the dis- interested spirit of serious fun they claim Americans so often lack. They were right about the Old Man. He had been demoted, as he saw it, from the destroyer Navy to our grim gray amphibs for some violation of the tin can code. But apparently the great beast on our horizon intrigued him, too. He ordered the ship to starboard in the direction of the mass. The grizzled quartermaster of the watch kept a baleful eye on him. Presumably he knew what the Old Man had done to cashier himself from the destroyer Navy. Captain H., splendid in his bridge coat, raised his binoculars and studied the mass that was keeping speed with us at half a mile’s distance. “Unidentified vessel,” he declared, “proceeding west on bear- robert stone 8

  ing...” He let the bearing go. The quartermaster recorded our po- sition. The vessel the captain thought he saw was low in the water and was certainly proceeding west. Whatever engine powered it was mysterious to me; it seemed to throb, a distinctly unstable mass. At this distance we could see that there were flights of predatory birds attending it, mainly the terrible buzzard gulls called skuas. Watching the captain, on whose observations and decisions we all depended, I suddenly suspected that he was going to give the order to fire. Not that we had much to fire with: a five-inch deck gun and a fifty-caliber machine gun only our single gunner’s mate could work. But the captain was not some kind of trigger-happy savage compelled to make a target of anything that could float. It was my imagination entirely. Still, the destroyer sailor’s impulse was to at least line up un- identified craft as targets. It was something of a trick to sail an eleven-knot cargo ship with two operative guns as though it were a destroyer, but in that regard the Old Man had some imagination too. He displayed his nostalgia for tin cans by trying to hold gun- nery practice with our five-inch after cannon. The gun stood near the fantail under a canvas cover. Two gunner’s mates or strikers manned it, plus the sight setter (often me), in a regular attempt to pulverize a target balloon. In the subantarctic sea the winds could easily blow at ninety knots, and the target balloon would come out of the box, pick up the prevailing breeze, and disappear over the horizon before anyone could manage to say “Fire!” or even think it. The echoing boom of the five-inch resounded in memory of the tar- get balloon, which by then had probably been claimed as a beach toy by laughing girls in Cape Town. If I was the sight setter and had for- prime green: remembering the sixties 9

  gotten my gloves at the call to battle stations, I would find myself halfway up the steel ladder to the sight mechanism, my fingers se- curely frozen to a steel rung of the ladder. I was without guilt; our chances of hitting the balloon were null. However, I was something of a discrepancy in the rigging, an “Irish pennant” as the Navy said, stand
ing halfway to the crow’s nest while the deck pitched and rolled far below. Relieved of the wheel, I stayed on the bridge, hoping not to be no- ticed and ordered to occupy myself with something useful. I shared a pair of binoculars with the bridge messenger and watched the mass in front of us change shape and direction while we adjusted course to make way for it. The longer I looked at the thing, the more awesome it seemed. It looked formless, but we could see that it was plainly alive. In my mind at least it assumed a sort of monstrousness, a liv- ing thing huge and strong, unrecognizable. “Penguins,” someone said. It may have been one of our learned scientists, wandered up from his stateroom. Penguins they were, Adélie penguins, the little hooded characters who waddle clownishly around their breeding colonies. The book on Adélie penguins will tell you that they are “ungainly” on land and that, having no land-based enemies, they have little fear of man; en- countering humans, they pause to regard them “quizzically.” Their Chaplin-like gait and myopic, clueless stares deprive them of the dignity to which all creatures in their natural state should be enti- tled. Even the desperate defense of their nests and eggs has an absurd quality. They come at the persistent intruder, cackling Donald Duck–like, fowl obscenities and churning their flippers faster than the eye can see, like so many tasteful little pinball machine compo- 10 robert stone

  nents. A good shot with the flipper, however, can buy them back a little respect, since they’re capable of breaking a human’s leg with one, and they give it all the force a small ridiculous bird can muster. But on land they are among nature’s comedians. Nature, pretty hu- morless in tooth and claw, provides few. The Adélie’s transformation in the grip of its migratory instinct, from droll oddity to mighty exemplar of the life force, is one of the great sights the ocean affords a traveler, one of the runic lessons you go on considering for the rest of your life. At different stages of your life they seem to vary in the substance of their meaning. And they do signify, provide a glimpse into the nature of things, or what the Ro- man poet so eloquently called “the tears of things.” As someone once said, everything that’s true about the ocean is true about life in gen- eral in some way, small or great. For me, most of these insights had something to do with the ocean. For an hour, the men on the bridge of the USS Arneb watched this enormous colony of penguins proceed. They swam porpoising, in very long graceful curves which for all I know might have been perfect. Their strength in swimming and diving is quite disproportional to their size; diving they descend to more than six hundred feet to search for the tiny crustaceans called krill that make up most of their diet. The Adélie arrive at their breeding grounds in October and nest on the Antarctic mainland. By the austral fall, the young penguins are old enough to make the migration we were seeing, from their rocky beaches on shore to shelf ice or any other convenient surface at the edge of the Antarctic Convergence, the edge of polar summer weather. For what it’s worth, we now know, as we did not then, that the Adélie’s winter breeding grounds are pitched farther and farther south as the average winter temperature increases. prime green: remembering the sixties 11